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Writer's pictureDavid Connolly

Switching Away from Synthetics Without Compromising Performance



Since synthetic materials came on the scene almost a century ago, they have grown to become the most popular choice for apparel. But the prevalence of polyester and other polymer-based fibers has come with a tiny yet pervasive problem: microplastics.


When clothing and textiles are washed and worn, microfibers are released into the environment, where they are inhaled or ingested by humans and wildlife. The not-for-profit, research and promotion organization, Cotton Incorporated, is among the institutions studying the impact that microplastics are having to quantify the effect on health and the environment. Although research is ongoing, consumer awareness of the issue is rising, with a Cotton Incorporated survey showing 40 percent of consumers are cognizant of microplastic pollution.


“As we become more aware and the science shows up and demonstrates the impacts of plastic, I feel confident that consumers and brands will make choices that move away from plastic and towards natural fibers like cotton,” Dr. Jesse Daystar, chief sustainability officer and vice president, sustainability at Cotton Incorporated, told Sourcing Journal’s sourcing and labor editor Jasmin Malik Chua during a recent fireside chat.


Compounding the concern about synthetics, these materials are not biodegradable and persist when disposed of on land or in water. Comparatively, studies have proven cotton breaks down rapidly in natural environments including water and soil.


Along with fueling the fast-fashion industry with inexpensive inputs, synthetic fibers have been a popular choice for categories like activewear and outdoor apparel. However, 57 percent of consumers in a Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ Survey note wanting cotton-rich activewear.


The good news is natural options exist that can provide the same performance that customers are looking for. For certain purposes, cotton’s absorbency is less sought-after, and Cotton Incorporated’s Product Development & Implementations teams have developed solutions like the moisture wicking yarn additive TransDRY® and WICKING WINDOWS™ Technologies, a pattern incorporated into the fabric that draws water away from the body so it can evaporate. The organization has also developed STORM COTTON™ Technology, a water repellant finish for cotton.


Cotton Incorporated’s headquarters in North Carolina’s Research Triangle includes a rapid prototyping lab where developers create new textile designs using circular and knitting machines as well as looms. Leveraging cotton’s versatility and on-site spinning capabilities, fabrics can be created with a range of yarn sizes to achieve different weights and properties. One of the developments is mesh fabrics that have holes built into the textile. “Cotton is already breathable, and then incorporating these permanent constructions, these openings, we’re really making a competitive fabric that can work well for activewear,” said Yvonne Johnson, senior director, product development at Cotton Incorporated.



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